2012 Shishapangma Expedition - Mountain History

 Shishapangma was first reconnoitered by a Chinese - Tibetan team in 1963, who reached 7200 meters on the north ridge before descending in poor weather.  It was the following year, on May 2nd, 1964 that it had its first successful summit, also by a Chinese team.

The North - Northeast Face of Shishapangma (image: Luke Smithwick)

2012 Changtang Winter Peak Exploration

Stephanie Schnieder flew in to Ladakh in February with a singular objective to climb to 6000 meters, in winter.  Day one, we quickly began acclimatizing; exploring old town Leh, and visiting with locals.  We developed our objective based on weather for the week, and current road conditions.  Planning ahead for winter 6000 meter ascents in Ladakh can leave you searching for consolation prizes, as passes close overnight, and where you can get in, you may not be able to get out.  After meeting with our local expert jeep  man, Angchuk, we hatched our plan.  We would head in to Tso Kar lake, over 5250 meter Polokongka La, and go for a quick ascent of 6053 meter Tukje Ri.  We knew that the pass could close any day due to wind drifting snow, and made sure the skies kept clear and nothing harbingered a change on the horizon.

A herd of more than 100 Kiang graze on the plains of Tso Kar.

2012 Peaks of Annapurna Exploratory

summit day on Syagang Ri

The goal on this particular trip was simple; acclimatize, and see how much climbing we could get done.  In the end, we found unstable and late seasonal snow in the Annapurnas, which turned us back from a nice summit on a rarely climbed peak in the northern portion of the range.  Setting out from Kathmandu, we had a Chullu West permit in hand; but when snow for 6 out of 9 days on the Chullu's became a reality while on approach; we opted to look in another less visited portion of north central Nepal.  We climbed some new ice, got to 6000 meters on a nice peak, and experienced the warm hospitality of the Thakali, Gurung, and Manangi people of the region. 

2012 Chadar Expedition

This year's Chadar was excellent; our timing right for having most of the river to ourselves.  On the day we stepped off the ice, more than 100 people were present in first camp, staged to journey the gorge.  Below, you'll find ramblings and images that illustrate the trip.

2011 Island Peak and Mera Expedition

In late Autumn, we trekked into the high Khumbu Himal and found excellent weather and new

2011 Upper Mustang Wild

We flew to Jomsom, and began our ascent into upper Mustang; the modern world quickly falling behind us as we took in the immense views of glaciated peaks and high, cold desert.  Our purpose was to visit the kingdom of Lo, and then explore the area between it and Dolpo, to the west.  Hence, an expedition.  An expedition is roughly defined as a journey undertaken for an exploratory purpose.  While there are maps on much of the Himalaya, the majority are a far cry from accurate. We set out to find out on each trip.

2011 Kang Yatze climb and Markha Valley trek

Kang Yatze

We left the town of Leh on a splitter clear morning, and wound up the Zanskar River to Chilling. Heading into the Markha Valley, we crossed the river on a suspension cable and began moving high.

2011 Tsomoriri Peaks Exploratory

For this trip, the weather was kind. We only had to endure one lightning and hail storm at 5000 meters, and only lost one member of the staff (long and humorous story, he's fine now and still with us). We climbed nine 6000 meter peaks as a group.  Images below highlight the experience.

2011 Upper Zanskar Traverse

Continuing from our traverse over the Kang La, we moved into Ladakh for a resupply and celebratory libations. After a night in Padum, we said good bye to Chris and Kathryn; and now we were three. We launched from the village of Dorzong, Tashi's childhood home, where we stopped for a visit before beginning the day's miles. A few photos illustrate some of his family, others had travelled to the local monastery to give alms.

2011 Kang La Expedition

trekkers and mountain porter staff approaching the Kang La.

The 2011 Kang La Expedition was a resounding success. Joining us on this particular experience were expedition members Christine and Katherine Sullivan of Ohio, USA; Fred Mauren of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; and Nakul and Marisa Patel of Bombay, India. For some members, it was their first mountain experience; a real eye opener. Their perspective was so refreshing. Veteran mountaineer Fred Mauren brought his knowledge to the experience and some quality humor.