Summer Solstice Alpinism - Kang Yatze 2016

We're just back to Leh from a nice June climb in the Kang Yatze massif.  The Markha valley is generally a trekking trip, where trekkers take their time to make the 45 kilometer trek over a 5000 meter pass in about 11 days. For us, this trip was focused on climbing, so we covered that ground in two days whereas most do it in six.  Eric, the climber on the trip, was ready and excited for this. Below, you'll find some spare notes while on the trip, along with photos that give you a visual of the region. We are now building treks and climbs for 2017 in the region. Do get in touch if you're keen to join us.

6:01 PM | 19 June 2016 | Chumik | 3590m

The cooling of the day, we walked about 5 hours and 15 km today. Camped next to a fresh water spring in the grass, we've set camp and will rest here for the night. The team is Eric McPherson, Kunsang Thackchod, Phuntsok Dorje, Gurmet Stok and myself. We'll make this trek of 4 days in two, and climb up to 5200 meters the day after tomorrow.
     The Solstice, longest day of the year, is tomorrow. We saw three other trekking groups today, most of them Israeli, heading to a home stay in the next village of Markha. Fair weather cumulus clouds dotted the sky as we walked today, giving fair moments of shade to an other wise hot sunny day. We could see the snow-covered peaks of Alchi down valley today, and I noticed that the ice routes of the Baralacha and Taglung la north faces still were in two days ago. These are both good signs for good conditions for climbing in the Kang Yatze massif.

Eric trekking up the trail in Markha. We spotted a lot of Himalayan Chukar in this section.

The night before summer Solstice, our camp next to a spring under a full moon.

A horseman works his team up the trail to the village of Sara.

A wilderness camp in the Markha valley.

The horseman arriving in camp, where the loads are removed and they are set free to graze for the night, the days work done.

On the trail, the horsemen working with their teams.

 1835 | Kang Yatze base camp | 22 June 2016 | 5045m

Clouds came through this afternoon, enveloping the peak in a dark gray cloud, graupel tapping on the tent fly and buckles of the dining tent clanging against its aluminum pole frame as the wind gusted in fits and starts.

The dining tent we utilize for our small groups, with rugs, camp chairs, tea and coffee, and snacks always available.

A horned lark in base camp. The most common bird in the Changtang.

Climbing gear lain out for planning the traverse from Kang Yatze 2 to 1.

A local headed up the trail to visit a friend.

Locals in the village of Markha doing the annual white-washing of the chortens.

In the village of Hangkar there are verdant fields, white chortens, and views of the Kang Yatze range. Timeless.

Our first view of the Kang Yatze massif before the village of Hangkar.

Locals in the village of Hangkar.

A lone villager out looking for her yaks near the village of Sara.

Eric crossing the icy river near Sumdo.

Trekking out of the Markha valley and into the plains of Nyimaling.

Goats and sheep in the village of Markha.

On the trail in the Markha valley.

Marmot battle (!)

We spent the morning paring down and organizing equipment for the climb tomorrow night. Let's see what the weather looks like in the morning.  We arrived to base camp yesterday afternoon, hiking up from the summer grazing hamlet of Tujungtse. We both had mild headaches, a symptom of a rapid ascent from 3700 meters to 5045 meters in three days. Most groups that are trekking the Markha valley do so in four to five days, with an acclimatization stop at 4000 meters in Hangkar. The ends to the means of a Markha valley trek is the valley itself, hence the slow trek. We were utilizing the valley for access, the approach to 6400 meter Kang Yatze 1.  Eric is strong, and has altitude experience with a previous ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal. Today he reports that he "feels like a million bucks". We will be fine with the altitude. It was a good day of rest and preparation.

Ice climbing on the Kang Yatze glacier

Climbing high on a pillar in the serac field of the Kang Yatze glacier.

A local resident in Nyimaling.

A two person tent, each member had their own while on treks and climb with us. The red toilet tent in the background.

Morning light on the glacier from the summit of Kang Yatze 2.

The Shang Sumdo gorge after crossing the Gongmaru La.

Big sky country with trekkers (bottom left).

Sunset in Nyimaling

A local out for a search for her yaks.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

On the Kang Yatze glacier after descent.

Trailside flowers on retreat.

A young of the year donkey in Nyimaling.

A local takes his animals out to pasture.

 Conclusion


Our original goal was to climb the northwest ridge in alpine style, establishing a high camp in the rocks on Kang Yatze 2 and then continuing on to complete the ridge early the following morning. In our discussions on the trail and in the dining tent on approach, I brought up weight. Carrying planned buy gear would add kilos to our packs, which were already heavy from a small stove, a light alpine rack, and alpine double ropes.

On the summit of Kang Yatze 2, pondering our next move.

I added that we could bring an alpine bivy tarp and and a single foam mattress, using it for emergencies and saving about several kilos each.  This plan stuck and we set to planning on it, a single push alpine style ascent.  Arriving in base camp, we had the usual slightly elevated heart rate and even a mild headache for a brief period that can accompany moving to 5000 meters. We waited for our bodies to adjust to that altitude, laid out our gear for the climb, and then set off at 10 pm for the climb. Reaching Kang Yatze 2 summit at 6 am, with about an hour total of breaks enroute, we watched the clouds roll in and out on the ridge, not exactly the most inspiring weather.  I began melting snow in the Jetboil, refilling our water bottles and watching to see if the weather would change in our favor. 

Spectacular views on our descent to Kang Yartze base camp.

    We discussed the climb at this point. I mentioned that we had 980 meters of distance to climb on technical and semi-technical terrain with a vertical gain of roughly 200 vertical meters. We talked about the commitment on the ridge. Once we started, we would need to commit and climb on to the summit, or return the way we had come. There was no option for bailing in the middle of the ridge.  Both of us felt fine. The night had been calm, and we had moved slowly and deliberately at a pace that we could maintain for the duration of the traverse.  I knew we could just go for it. The ridge doesn’t present any climbing that is overly difficult. Perhaps a few exposed moves on rock at a “step” near the summit, but overall fairly steady climbing at an altitude (Denali elevation here) above the summit of Denali. I didn’t see it.  I was not keen to expose the guest with me to such a risk. “You are guiding” kept ringing through my mind, and I decided we should be content with a 6250 meter summit, and head back down to base camp. Could we have completed the climb? Possibly. It did not feel right. I’ve trusted my instincts while climbing in the Himalayas for the past 15 years, and never had to call a helicopter or had a rescue. My primary goal is to keep that record intact, bringing guests home safe is the most important parameter of successful mountain guiding. We came back safely with an excellent trek and 6000 meter summit, and all in two weeks (!).

2014 Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory

So how did the Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory go for 2014? Well, we never made it!  The guests on the trek had a last minute emergency before leaving home, so we adjusted the itinerary to fit their new needs. Hence, a Markha valley trek with Kang Yatze climb in June! A nice trip, and in the truly quiet season. Notes and photos below. -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides



Hangkar | 4039m | 17 June 2014 | 1715

We started yesterday close to lunchtime after shifts in our program due to guest needs, moving from Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh in a quick period of ten days (a huge move for 12 horses, all the gear, 3 Nepali guides, and 1 local guide). We made the move in order to accommodate our guests, who in the end at to put off their trek for personal reasons.

Enjoying the evening in the meadows of Hangkar. We spend two days here to acclimatize properly to move up to the high plateau of Nyimaling.

  So there we were, the 2014 Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory instantly morphed into a Markha Valley trek with a climb of Kang Yatze 2.  Two guides from the United States, Evan Miller and Rebecca Yaguda joined us for the experience.  We've moved quickly through the Markha valley, covering what is normally four days ground in two big days. With our first glimpse of Kang Yatze today, we are looking forward to moving up to base camp in the coming days, and focus on climbing on this quick trip to the alpine. Evan and Rebecca are strong guides and enjoyed having long days walking.

The citrine wagtails have returned to this small ochre-colored valley to summer and nest in its thickets and groves.  While being one of the most popular treks in Ladakh, June is proving to be a quiet month, with few others trekkers seen and great weather, if not too warm and sunny. Ngima Tenzi Sherpa, Da Gyelje Sherpa, and Gombu Sherpa are adjusting nicely, and keep referencing Dolpo and Mustang in Nepal as Ladakh's similarity.  It is their first season guiding in Ladakh, with 37 years guiding experience collectively in Nepal.

Last night was a perfect reference Da Gyelje's cooking, with homemade pasta and sauce with parmegian, and banana flambe for dessert. It appears that everyone, including the guests, are content to be in the mountains again.  We'll probably rest here tomorrow at 4000m, and move up to base camp the day after.  The river is flowing quiet high now, a local elder mentioning that the Zalung Karpo La is releasing it.

1828 | 4030m | Hangkar, Ladakh | 

Morning in Hangkar, the horsemen skipped town early to get cheaper grass charges.  We had a nice breakfast of omelettes with fresh roti bread, filter coffee, muesli with fresh fruit, and set about putting fresh paint on company gear, washing clothes, and enjoying the morning sun. Donkeys grazed in the fields around, and as the morning came on locals came out of their freshly-whitewashed homes to plow their dark brown fields with dzo-driven tools, sowing the seeds of this years barley.  

Across the way, groups of locals are together to build a dwelling, perhaps a new home stay house or a growing family.  This afternoon, kids passed by our tents and said hello in perfect English, fresh out of the local school. I pulled out the climbing equipment and made sure that all the crampons fit everyone's boots well and were ready for us to move up to Kang Yatze base camp tomorrow.

Clouds rolled through intermittently throughout the day, without a drop of rain and a passing breeze occasionally.  Evan spotted some blue sheep on a distant ridge; and also reported seeing a large raptor, perhaps a Lammergeier or Himalayan Griffon.

1708 Saturday 21 June 2014 Kang Yatze Base Camp

Trekking up to Kang Yatze base camp from the Markha valley. What a view!

We moved up to base camp here three days past, and have spent our time acclimatizing, going for hikes, and chatting in the dining tent with Da Gyelje's banana cake and chai.  A nice few days, we plan for a climb of Kang Yatze 2 in the morning. 

Ngima Tenzi, Gombu, and Kunsang have been practicing with their climbing gear and knots; as Kunsang is an aspirant mountaineering guide and can pick up a lot of tips from Gombu and Ngima; if not Da Gyelje the cook as well; his having climbed Everest 5 times. 

Today being the summer solstice, we awoke to a Himalayan snow squall.

22 June 2014 | 5032m | Kang Yatze BC

The team started climbing Kang Yatze 2 at 0500 this morning. It's 1132 and rightly snowing with about an inch on the ground.  The Himalaya are giving them a true climbing experience, and hopefully it will clear and they'll make the summit.  Not sure as it looks like this weather has set in for the day.

Still stiff in the legs, I expect by tomorrow I'll be ready for another climb here in the Kang Yatze massif, having completed an ascent of Kang Yatze I via the northeast ridge two days prior. I began the climb at 0845 and made it back to camp at 0031. A big day and a good reminder to always bring your head torch.  

We've a few more days before heading down to the Ladakhi capital of Leh, and plans to establish a high camp on the Dzo Jongo glacier and get some steeper alpine alpine climbs in.  With the current weather, I'm not sure what we're going to get done, and how the group will fair today and the condition they'll be in upon return. Will have to wait and see.  

The view from Kang Yatze massif.

A group of yaks are grazing this valley for these weeks while we're here.  Da Gyelje hums a tune over the steady hum of the kerosene stove in the kitchen tent, and Mamoo sneezes and pops his head out occasionally to eye his grazing horses.  Snowing patters on the tent above me, and the call of Himalayan snowcock and the whistle of the marmot and staccatoed-chirp of the perennial nesting Horned Larks gives a sense of place to an otherwise serene meadow with a young and meandering glacial stream steadily flowing through.  Kang Yatze towers in front and doesn't seem to be in any hurry to take notice of anything occurring beneath it, even as its seracs and massive ice walls steadily trickly away to meet the mighty Indus River 40 miles distant.  

1607

They've returned a few hours ago, reaching 6000 meters and no summit.  The snow continues to fall in mixes of flakes and graupel stones, and I wonder about the current weather pattern and the duration of its continuance.  I'd like to see it burn away this evening but have my doubts.

     

0703 23 June 2014 Kang Yatze BC

Morning with snow overnight, it looks like we'll be moving out of base camp this morning.  With the ground and surrounding peaks covered in white, it's a nice break from the snow and freezing rain over the past few days, but it doesn't look like it's done.  We hatched a plan to move over the Stok range today, and then move along its northern flank.  If we put in two solid long days, we will be in the Matho valley to make a climb of Shuku Kangri, and then to traverse to Stok Kangri to finish the trip.  Just the walk will be spectacular, and hopefully we won't get too much precipitation along the way.  

Regardless, I don't think sitting in base camp here or establishing a higher camp is wise with the current patterns in the weather. I'll talk with Evan and Rebecca to see what their thoughts are and we'll go from there. 

1304 27 June 2014 Leh, Ladakh

We've been back in Leh for a few days, visiting ancient monasteries, having nice meals with the Himalaya Alpine staff in the comfortable guest house, and keeping warm in the unseasonably cool weather.  A nice short trek, it certainly wasn't what we all had planned at the end of May, but it was a fun experience, and we look forward to returning to the area soon.  Onwards and upwards.    

   -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides

2011 Kang Yatze climb and Markha Valley trek

Kang Yatze

We left the town of Leh on a splitter clear morning, and wound up the Zanskar River to Chilling. Heading into the Markha Valley, we crossed the river on a suspension cable and began moving high.