Annapurna Ski Touring - February 2018

In February 2018, I made two trips into the Annapurna Sanctuary for ski touring. We accessed the Sanctuary by flying with Siddarth Gurung, an excellent pilot with Simrik Helicopters in Pokhara. We met Siddarth at the Pokhara airport with our skis, touring packs, and a change of clothes. He flew us into the Annapurna Base Camp lodge, about a 20 minute flight. When we landed, we had ski touring access right out our door and had 4 spectacular days of ski touring before flying in the helicopter back to Pokhara. Jen Lukacic and Anna Fridlyanskaya joined me for this adventure, and on the second trip Bryan Fox, Austin Smith, and Bob Plumb for another week.

Snowboarding fresh snow in the Annapurna Sanctuary of Nepal. February 2018 / rider: Austin Smith // photo: Luke Smithwick

Skiing powder in the Annapurna Sanctuary. skier: Luke Smithwick / photo: Bob Plumb

Ski touring in the Annapurna Sanctuary. // skier: Jenn Lukacic // photo: Luke Smithwick

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My next ski trip to the Annapurna region is February 2019 (click here)

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Ski Touring Ladakh Indian Himalayas in June 2019

Kyajo Ri Expedition - April 2017

     Kyajo Ri is a 6186m mountain in the Solu-Khumbu region of Nepal. It is often climbed by large expedition companies utilizing Sherpa teams and fixed ropes. Teams climb to a high camp at 5700 meters, and then wake up early and jumar up to the summit. Our plan for the Spring 2017 Kyajo Ri expedition was to climb Kyajo Ri in alpine style from a high camp at 5300 meters near the lake.
     Alpine style? Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.
     Martin, Lisa and Lilian arrived and we went around Kathmandu getting last minute items, then with a smooth flight on the 3rd April with no delays (!) we spent the night at Monjo after a couple hours trek. The weather was breezy, cool, early Spring in the eastern Himalayas and I was fresh from a 90 day run of skiing every day in Gulmarg managing snow safety operations and other circus acts. It was a good ski (work) season, and my knees were still sore as I walked up the trail to Monjo with the group.
      Martin and Lisa had prior experience in Chamonix on rock and alpine routes and were looking for their first alpine climbing experience to 6000 meters in the Himalayas. Lilian wanted a two week trek with some climbing as a lead in to a longer expedition in the future. We were joined by Gomba Sherpa as assistant guide, and Karma Gyaltsen Sherpa as cook.  I worked with Karma on Shishapangma in 2012, and on Himlung in 2012 as well. Gomba and I have worked together every season since the Spring of 2013. Images below highlight the experience.
 -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides
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Gomba, Lisa, Martin, Lilian, Luke (left to right) on trek in the Khumbu (Everest) region.

Alpine Skills in the yard in Phortse, these skills practice days with my guests are key for smooth days high in the mountains. - Luke

Alpine rock climbing above Phortse on Lu Ri Peak. This was Lilian's main objective for this trek alongside trekking Gokyo Ri for the best views of Mount Everest. She will be able to use these skills on future climbs. This day was also important for Martin, Lisa, Gomba and I as we cycled through pitched out climbing in 4th and 5th class terrain.

Lilian with the lovely lodge owners in Phakding.

Spring blooms along the Dudh Khosi.

The group trekking in warm sunshine (Martin, Lisa, Lilian)

Lilian on the summit of her objective (Gokyo Ri), with Cho Oyu in the distance.

Summit cake celebration for Lilian

Gomba and I with cool guy (no smiling) photo on the summit of Cho Oyu. We're both nice guys (and not very cool). :)

Spring blooms at the fork in the trail where we climbed to Kyajo Ri base camp

Lisa rappelling from the technical terrain on Kyajo Ri.

Alpine climbing on Kyajo Ri (notice the white rope which is rubbish left behind by a another group)

Dawn as we climbed on summit day for Kyajo Ri

The keyhole that brings you to high camp for Kyajo Ri (surmounting the first headwall)

Feedback from the guests on the trip:

--> "Just keep at it, I appreciate all that you are (Luke) and do. You treat the crew (porters, etc) and people you have to deal with (lodge staff, etc) with respect, and that gets a big tick in my book. And as someone who is from a third world country, and has had to watch westerners struggle to live/work in that part of the world, I can say you are doing really well in keeping your frustration with the inefficiency in check.

"I really appreciate the small group and the skills I get to learn and pick up, not just from HAG but also from the other guests."
"Overall, we had a great time and were very happy with the trip. Luke, who is the main guide and owner, is very knowledgeable, experienced, friendly and fun to hang out with. Because of the small group (three clients during the acclimatization trek and only the two of us during the week of the summit attempt), we got the chance to learn a lot during the whole trip. If you are looking for a trip with a small group of clients, want to get the chance to learn a lot and to go to a region/mountain without a lot of other tourists/people, Himalaya Alpine Guides is the company to go with! We can highly recommend them!
     

Changtang Silence - June 2017

Changtang Peaks notes. 
There is something beyond what I have seen. I am in Delhi now after completing the 2017 Changtang Peaks Exploratory. It was a well rounded trip complete with cultural interaction with the Changpa nomads, a 6000 meter remote summit climb, an introduction to multi-pitch rock climbing (for those that were interested), and a downhill mountain bike trip from the 5300 meter Khardung pass.

Phuntsok, Kunsang, and Gomba trekking to base camp. We have worked together as a team continuously for four years now.

Approaching base camp with thunderstorm skies one afternoon.

Making Italian bruschetta with freshly made bread, yak cheese, olive oil, tomatoes, and sauteed garlic.

Peak objectives that still await for future seasons.

A snowy morning at base camp.

Pema and Gyatso. It is our second season working with them and their team of twelve horses. Sometimes we work with Ram Lal and Sanjay from Kullu.

The team celebrating with a glass of wine at the end of the expedition in our simple dining tent.

The horsemen stay in their own parachute tent. Here they are getting ready to walk towards the start of our next trek in the Stok range.

Beautiful mountains to the East of Lake Tsomoriri, with Changpa nomads camping with their flocks in the foreground. This is Peldo, one of our camps while on the Changtang Peaks Exploratory.

Loading up camp to head back to Leh. Here you can see our gear truck, the green tents that each trekker gets on our summer lightweight trips in Ladakh, and views of Lake Tsomoriri in the background.

Chris Trafford making friends with shepherds.

An introductory rock climbing day during one of the trip days.

Mountain biking from the Khardung La (5300m)

Our interim camp on the way to base camp.

I saw the following species during the trip:

Tibetan Sand Grouse
Citrine Wagtail
Common Tern
Common Raven
Ladakh Pika
Marmot
Horned Lark
Plain-backed Snow finch
Black-headed Gull
Ruddy Shelduck
Bar headed Goose
Rock Pigeon
Wooly Hare
White crowned redstart
Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass)


Peldo, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 4544m | 6:36PM |

The wind is kicking this afternoon. Yesterday, the Tibetan Buddhist monks that passed through our camp said the wind would persist for another ten days. I recall over the years in this same spot how the wind persisted in October. Most people visit Tsomoriri and the Changtang in July and August. We are early. There is more snow in the mountains, yet not too much. It is giving definition to the ridgelines, showing off the true climbing around this massive high altitude lake. I'm enjoying seeing Tsomoriri with such snows in this cold desert, this perhaps my tenth visit to the region.
       Today is purposeful. Acclimatization. My guests arrived three days ago to Leh, Ladakh at 3477 meters. They spent two nights there, trekking with Gomba Sherpa on their second day over a nearby pass to acclimatize. Next we drove here, a massive jump to 4544 meters. Everyone in the team feels fine, and this is the fourth trip we've run this way, always taking the textbook rest day after such a large gain in altitude. Today we spotted 8 bird species, including the rare Tibetan sand grouse and the Plain-backed snow finch. Being a climber and skier, I've learned to enjoy Himalayan expeditions because of their variety.
One day I'm viewing rare bird species, the next we're boulder hopping up a perennial stream to base camp, and then we're climbing unclimbed faces, seeking out new experiences, yet everyday just high quality in a pristine environment.
Tomorrow we'll walk into the Lublung river valley, closer to climbing objectives and have higher ground. :/:

Lublung Nala Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5272m | 4:33pm

Underpromise, Overdeliver. Chris Trafford says today. Storm clouds pass by overhead, some threatening to drop rain and snow on us, yet it remains dry here in camp. The Lublung creek we are next to was dry until about half a kilometer below us. If you haven't been here before, it gets you thinking. 14kms from our lake camp in Peldo to here. Locals pronounce Peldo (Beldo). It's early summer here, there are many nomad camps around, white canvas with blue trim and the classic brown yak hair tents stretched between poplar poles worn smooth from the years of movement, of storms, of the hands of work.
     The winter snows are starting to melt during the warming days, yet it still isn't full summer here on the high plateau. Two days prior I noticed the monsoon has arrived to Rishikesh, an Instagram photo posted by a friend.

15 kilometers
4 hours 26 minutes of walking
6 hours of travel 
5284m

Lublung Nala Base Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5592m | 5:41pm

The snow showers come and go, in pulses throughout an otherwise mild day. Yesterday, we acclimatized at a lower camp, and shifted up here today, 1046 feet higher. The weather continues to appear unstable, yet tomorrow morning we will start at 4 am, for a nearby 6000 meter summit. Everyone feels healthy, and some of us will climb to 6000 meters for the first time in their life tomorrow. That's exciting.

Lublung Nala Base Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5592m | 6:03pm

We all reached a 6200m Himalayan summit this morning.  Guests say it was fulfilling. Gomba, Chris, and Chuck climbed together on a large ridge. Will wasn't feeling well last night so we planned a rest day today. He woke up feeling strong and we went for a walk into a nearby cirque to scout new climbing routes. Halfway up the valley, with clouds covering the peaks we'd planned to scout, I asked him, "what do you want to do today Will?" There was a clear route straight to the summit of the peak the others were already climbing. I gave that option, and he was up for it. We began climbing, reaching the group an hour later. We all summited together in brilliant sunshine, descending to camp for lunch. Evening, we'll shift our base camp tomorrow, and climb another 6000 meter peak in the coming days. Snow showers and marginal weather continue.

There is something heavily comforting to all in the room. No one had much to eat for  dinner tonight, and silence is our moniker. Yet I can tell that something is in the air. And everyone seems ready for sleep.

We are down from the high mountains. A monk came by, asking for the fee to sleep on his monasteries land. We paid it politely, opening a bottle of South Australian Cabernet to share amongst ourselves. We are nine, two horsemen, Phuntsok, Gomba, and Kunsang.

Back to Leh, we have gone multi-pitch rock climbing and downhill mountain biking the past two days. A great trip. We will return to this region in 2018.

2016 August Hagshu Expedition

Hagshu on the right in marginal weather.  The face you see here is the North face, first climbed in 2014. Our goal was a less heinous objective around the corner to the left, with more manageable slope angles and relatively less overhanging hazard. 

Hagshu Expedition.  Hagshu is a challenging peak in the central Zanskar Himalayas of northern India. It thwarted many attempts by some of the top alpine climbers of the 1980’s, finally falling to a Polish team in 1989, and a consequent successful climb by the British that was an “official IMF expedition”.  A few years ago, top British and Slovenian alpinists made successful ascents of the North and Northeast faces of Hagshu, with one team receiving a “Piolet D’or” for the ascent. 

Working the yak cheese on a sheet of drying plastic at a doksa (place of grazing).

Our plan began 4 years ago. Two of the guests on the climb wanted to climb a first ascent, around 6500 meters in height, and in the Tien Shan of China/Kyrgyzstan.  While I did do my research on the Tien Shan, even buying a few maps and putting together some tentative plans, the place just wasn’t really appealing to me. The Indian Himalaya is wild and off the map, but we do have a rescue plan, and there is definitive medical care in Delhi that is to a standard that I’m comfortable with. While I don’t plan on having to utilize such services, it is always in the back of my mind. I’m guiding, which means not that I’m to get anyone to any far flung summit, but to maximize potential enjoyment without compromising safety. Plus, there is no way I’m leaving the crew I work with. We stay together.

Hence, the 2016 Hagshu Expedition. The group arrived to Leh, and I did the expedition briefing and we did our routine gear checks.  Since we were moving to Kargil the following day, we would only be in Leh for a night.  We were a group of four climbers, with a liaison officer from Kangra, and the guys I work with (Kunsang Thakchod, Gomba Sherpa, Phuntsok Dorje).  We are the core team of Himalaya Alpine Guides. In addition, two guys from Darjeeling came along to help out, Mingma and Mingma Sherpa (the twins). The Mingma twins would assist Gomba in helping to get loads higher onto the mountain, and in fixing ropes while I climbed with the rest of the team.

Our trip to base camp was flawless, with a nice sunny drive to Kargil, a night's stay, and then onward drive to the village of Agsho in Zanskar and then trek up the valley with the village headmen, their yaks shouldering the burden of our climbing equipment and supplies for the several weeks climb.  In base camp, Gomba and the Twins quickly set to the mountain, bringing a load up to Advanced Base Camp, while we acclimatized a day and reviewed some glacier travel skills and fixed rope travel so the little details were fresh in everyone's mind when they came to execute those parts of the climb.

Approaching base camp in the Agsho valley, with Agsho (Hagshu) in the background left.

     The following morning, with heavy loads on our backs, we were off up the glacier and across a medial moraine to reach Advanced Base Camp.  Reaching camp, the skies began to darken as I pointed out the Twins and Gomba further up the glacier having a look round.  The weather was not looking good. Fortunately we had our Mountain Hardwear Trango tents, a large supply of fuel, and food to ride out the weather. We watched the night come as the rain and snow flew. Our location was on rocks on a flattish bit of medial moraine far from any avalanche run outs.  The snow continued as we brewed up hot drinks, soup, and then dinner.  I stepped out of my tent to talk with the other members of the group several times, with Gomba and the Mingmas back from the foray into route finding for the day. The route, to them, did not appear in condition.

      I moved to the other tent to speak with the other climbers. We discussed the weather and the route. Gomba Sherpa made some photographs of the upper route and had returned to camp earlier that day with them.  The route appeared possible, but not in the best condition for an ascent and we had rockfall and avalanches going on. We knew we needed perfect weather for the route.

We decided to call off the climb and shifted a few ranges to the East. The Changtang plateau holds so many places to explore. We completed the final week of the expedition climbing a lesser peak in alpine style.

2016 September Stok Range Alpine Climbing

Will Porteous on the summit of Shuku Kangri. We were the only team on this peak.

The Stok range is the prominent skyline of peaks seen from Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The Stok range is most often visited for a climb of the popular trekking peak, Stok Kangri.  The focus of this trip was to seek out new climbing objectives on adjacent peaks and on North facing slopes.  The north facing slopes of this range hold stationary ice bodies and glaciers and do present some degree of climbing challenge, and at the 5500m+ elevation.
      From 25 September - 8 October 2016, we made our way into Stok Kangri base camp via Shang Sumdo and the Matho valley.  There are a lot of tour companies offering climbs of the standard route on Stok Kangri. It is possible to come to Leh and organize a climb of Stok Kangri for about US$400. You go into base camp, sleeping in pre-established camps, and walk up the route with a local boy, under good conditions. This trip has nothing to do with this experience. Our goal was to do alpine climbs of more aesthetic routes, including learning to climb on ice with crampons, and covering other skills for moving in technical rock and ice terrain in the mountains, with a western mountain guide teaching these skills (Luke Smithwick).

Blue sheep cross a glacial stream on approach to base camp.

     Our first day of training for these skills was in Matho Phu, where we covered ascending and descending a fixed rope in steep rock terrain, moving together in alpine style on a rope, basic knots for mountaineering, objective hazards in mountaineering, communications while traveling as a rope team, and how to transition into multi-pitch rappels from upward progress.  Each of our trips is catered to the participants involved. Mahesh wanted to trek and try climbing, Amit wanted to learn to mountain skills, and Will wanted to climb new routes and summit 6000 meter peaks. More images of the trip below. We will return to the Stok range in July 2017. Interested? Contact Luke
    

Himalaya Alpine Guide Luke Smithwick putting up the rope to belay guests during the ascent of Golep Kangri in alpine style.

Will Porteous on the summit of Stok Kangri.

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The team making their first multi-pitch alpine rock climb. Two of these climbers had never been rock climbing before.

Views on 5000 meter Matho La.

Looking into Matho valley from the top of Matho La.

Amit with Stocky the dog while hiking Stok Kangri.

Mahesh on trek.

Satopanth - Expedition Report

First views of the Himalayas after the two day drive from the plains of India.

The Gangotri temple, where Hindus come for a blessing, and where a dunk in the river removes the sins of a lifetime. Notice the spectacular granite rock climbing above the village.

Since we were the first expedition this season, we were able to camp out right next to the temple. By now, the temple is busy with pilgrims and tourists. It was nice to enjoy the peace and take in the place all to ourselves.

There are a lot of walls and towers to climb in the Garhwal Himalaya. Most of them are likely unclimbed.

A bharal (blue sheep) checks us out along the trail into base camp.

The now famous Shark's Fin (Meru). Climbers in the past few years made a successful ascent of the central tower, and made a film that reached movie theaters in the United States.

Our functional dining tent. For climbs lower than 8000 meters, we use dining tents that fit the group size, and sit on rugs with Crazy Creek camp chairs. We've found that guests enjoy this more than the rigid plastic chairs of a typical expedition tent. Our dining tents reflect the group size, and objective. We do use tables and chairs for certain expeditions. It's best to clarify with us which you prefer.

Packing up camp beneath aesthetic Mount Shivling in the meadows of Nandanvan.  We use two person tents for each climber on our expeditions, and 3 person tents for each climber on our 8000 meter trips.

Lal Bahadur serving up omelettes and fresh bread for breakfast. On mornings while we are still on approach, we have breakfast outside on carpets to enjoy the views, notice the camp is being packed up and hence lots of equipment everywhere.

Looking up valley towards Tibet as we approach base camp.

In base camp, we quickly set to packaging food for the mountain, and doing final preparations. Here, Tsewang Namgyal and Gomba Sherpa.

Vasuki Parbat from base camp. One day.....

Advanced Base Camp on the Satopanth Glacier.

Mount Satopanth from Camp 1, Gomba Sherpa preparing for the day.

We had to walk across some crevasses, but in the Spring season most crevasses were well covered with snow.

Ted Hedberg and Chris Lane brewing up some hot drinks and food for lunch at Camp 1.

Agnieszka Pilarczyk and Chris Lane on the fixed lines between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

On the "knife ridge" between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Satopanth.

On the "knife ridge" between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Satopanth.

Working out tent spots in evening light at Camp 3.

At Camp 3.

Looking up at the summit of Satopanth from Camp 3. Ted Hedberg mentally preparing for the next day's climb.

Summit day dawn, Mount Kamet in the distance (back left).

On the summit, with Vasuki Parbat in the background.

Descending down to Gangotri after the climb, we had to reroute from leaving Vasuki Lake, as water ice had frozen in the rock route overnight.

Expedition Members

Ang Kami Sherpa

Dukpa Tsering Sherpa. Dukpa fixed the rope for the route from base camp to the summit.

Gomba Sherpa.

Kunsang Thakchod

Phuntsok Dorje

Lal Bahadur.

Chris Lane.

Luke Smithwick

Agnieszka Pilarczyk

We are safely back from a successful ascent of 7075 meter Satopanth.  We made a relatively quick climb of the peak, reaching base camp in four days from Gangotri (Gangotri>Chirbas>Bhojbasa>Nandanvan>Vasuki Tal (BC)).

After a day of acclimatizing in base camp (and letting the group members choose what food they wanted on the mountain), we set off for advanced base camp. Spending one night in ABC, we climbed to camp 1, spent two nights there, climbed to camp 2, spent two nights there, climbed to camp 3, and went for the summit, descending to camp 3 for one more night before descending all the way back to base camp in a single day.

Actual Itinerary
1- 20 April - drive Gangotri
2- 21 April - trek Chirbasa
3- 22 April - trek Bhojbasa
4- 23 April - trek Nandanvan
5- 24 April - trek Vasuki Tal - 4900m
6- 25 April - preparations at Vasuki Tal
7- 26 April - trek Advanced Base Camp - 4976m
8- 27 April - trek Camp 1 - 5150m
9- 28 April - acclimatize Camp 1 - 5150m
10- 29 April - climb Camp 2 - 6000m
11- 30 April - acclimatize Camp 2 - 6000m
12- 1 May - climb Camp 3 - 6400m
13- 2 May - climb summit, Descend Camp 3 - (7075m) 6400m
14- 3 May - descend Base camp
15- 4 May - rest base camp
16- 5 May - rest base camp
17- 6 May - trek Bhojbasa
18- 7 May - trek Gangotri, drive Uttarkashi
19- 8 May - drive Mussoorie
20- 9 May - drive Delhi
21- 10 May - trip debriefing, successful expedition complete

We were only able to complete this climb in an efficient style because of the small team size, prior altitude experience by all climbers, and remarkably excellent weather that we experienced for the duration of the expedition.  The climbing team was comprised of 8 climbers: Luke Smithwick (leader/guide), Ted Hedberg (client/climbing member), Chris Lane (client/climbing member), Agnieszka Pilarczyk (client/climbing member), Tsewang Namgyal (local guide), Dukpa Tsering (local guide), Ang Kami Sherpa (local guide), Gomba Sherpa (local guide).  While Luke climbed with the three climbing members, the other four local guides went ahead and fixed ropes in exposed sections of the climb, and also carried expeditions tents, food, and stoves to camps ahead so the members could climb fast.
     The team essentially moved as a unit this way, sometimes being just a few hours ahead and setting the route and camps, while at other times moving up the day before, and then coming down to rest before climbing up to stay the following day.  Dukpa Tsering (pictured), the elder climber and guide of the trip, was the climbing leader. Dukpa is the reason we were able to summit Mount Satopanth.  He led all of the rope fixing, and was on the lead end of the rope for the crux sections along with the plods in between.  Gomba Sherpa, Tsewang Namgyal, and Ang Kami Sherpa supported Dukpa by providing the static rope, snow pickets, rock pitons, and ice screws, along with a belay when he needed it.
     For summit day, we started the stoves at 1230 am, and left the tents at 330 am. It was a bit of a task to get the whole team moving as everyone had been climbing hard for 7 days at this point. We started on, and by 1230 pm had the whole team on the summit, Dukpa once again pushing ahead to get us over the summit cornice and on to the ramped summit.  What a view, smiles all around and quiet contentment. A few photos, some handshakes, the prayer flags put up, and we began descending to high camp. Congratulations to the team.
So how does it work? We certainly were not playing by the rules in one sense, while we were following the "climb high, sleep low" ethic in another. This trip was a unique case where we simply had 8 people that are able to acclimatize quickly, while also tolerating the lower regions of high altitude quite well.  No one experienced mild altitude symptoms until we reached 6000m, upon which two climbers (myself and one guest), had mild headaches that went away with rest.  Each member of the climb took 150 mgs of Acetazolamide starting three days prior to our ascent to altitude (starting the day before we arrived in Gangotri), and continued this dosage until we descended to base camp after the summit.  Of course, we had the Portable Altitude Chamber for emergencies along with us, and Dexamethasone and Nifedipine for severe altitude illness.
     While having a Portable Altitude Chamber is now industry standard, I honestly feel that they are not necessary if you have a professional guide that is fluent in the functional language of the clients (and who also takes the time and patience to talk and listen to each client). The only time I've seen a PAC bag utilized was when there was a communication barrier between the clients and the guide, and the clients continued ascending even with obvious signs of altitude illness. Communication, interaction, and discussion of each members current status is something we do through the day, and on into the evening. It's very clear when someone needs to rest at an altitude, and wait until their body improves at that altitude before ascending higher.  Perhaps what also comes into play here is group size. With a trekking or expedition group larger than 6 people, you are more likely to be overlooked and not attended to by your guide.