Changtang Silence - June 2017

Changtang Peaks notes. 
There is something beyond what I have seen. I am in Delhi now after completing the 2017 Changtang Peaks Exploratory. It was a well rounded trip complete with cultural interaction with the Changpa nomads, a 6000 meter remote summit climb, an introduction to multi-pitch rock climbing (for those that were interested), and a downhill mountain bike trip from the 5300 meter Khardung pass.

Phuntsok, Kunsang, and Gomba trekking to base camp. We have worked together as a team continuously for four years now.

Approaching base camp with thunderstorm skies one afternoon.

Making Italian bruschetta with freshly made bread, yak cheese, olive oil, tomatoes, and sauteed garlic.

Peak objectives that still await for future seasons.

A snowy morning at base camp.

Pema and Gyatso. It is our second season working with them and their team of twelve horses. Sometimes we work with Ram Lal and Sanjay from Kullu.

The team celebrating with a glass of wine at the end of the expedition in our simple dining tent.

The horsemen stay in their own parachute tent. Here they are getting ready to walk towards the start of our next trek in the Stok range.

Beautiful mountains to the East of Lake Tsomoriri, with Changpa nomads camping with their flocks in the foreground. This is Peldo, one of our camps while on the Changtang Peaks Exploratory.

Loading up camp to head back to Leh. Here you can see our gear truck, the green tents that each trekker gets on our summer lightweight trips in Ladakh, and views of Lake Tsomoriri in the background.

Chris Trafford making friends with shepherds.

An introductory rock climbing day during one of the trip days.

Mountain biking from the Khardung La (5300m)

Our interim camp on the way to base camp.

I saw the following species during the trip:

Tibetan Sand Grouse
Citrine Wagtail
Common Tern
Common Raven
Ladakh Pika
Marmot
Horned Lark
Plain-backed Snow finch
Black-headed Gull
Ruddy Shelduck
Bar headed Goose
Rock Pigeon
Wooly Hare
White crowned redstart
Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass)


Peldo, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 4544m | 6:36PM |

The wind is kicking this afternoon. Yesterday, the Tibetan Buddhist monks that passed through our camp said the wind would persist for another ten days. I recall over the years in this same spot how the wind persisted in October. Most people visit Tsomoriri and the Changtang in July and August. We are early. There is more snow in the mountains, yet not too much. It is giving definition to the ridgelines, showing off the true climbing around this massive high altitude lake. I'm enjoying seeing Tsomoriri with such snows in this cold desert, this perhaps my tenth visit to the region.
       Today is purposeful. Acclimatization. My guests arrived three days ago to Leh, Ladakh at 3477 meters. They spent two nights there, trekking with Gomba Sherpa on their second day over a nearby pass to acclimatize. Next we drove here, a massive jump to 4544 meters. Everyone in the team feels fine, and this is the fourth trip we've run this way, always taking the textbook rest day after such a large gain in altitude. Today we spotted 8 bird species, including the rare Tibetan sand grouse and the Plain-backed snow finch. Being a climber and skier, I've learned to enjoy Himalayan expeditions because of their variety.
One day I'm viewing rare bird species, the next we're boulder hopping up a perennial stream to base camp, and then we're climbing unclimbed faces, seeking out new experiences, yet everyday just high quality in a pristine environment.
Tomorrow we'll walk into the Lublung river valley, closer to climbing objectives and have higher ground. :/:

Lublung Nala Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5272m | 4:33pm

Underpromise, Overdeliver. Chris Trafford says today. Storm clouds pass by overhead, some threatening to drop rain and snow on us, yet it remains dry here in camp. The Lublung creek we are next to was dry until about half a kilometer below us. If you haven't been here before, it gets you thinking. 14kms from our lake camp in Peldo to here. Locals pronounce Peldo (Beldo). It's early summer here, there are many nomad camps around, white canvas with blue trim and the classic brown yak hair tents stretched between poplar poles worn smooth from the years of movement, of storms, of the hands of work.
     The winter snows are starting to melt during the warming days, yet it still isn't full summer here on the high plateau. Two days prior I noticed the monsoon has arrived to Rishikesh, an Instagram photo posted by a friend.

15 kilometers
4 hours 26 minutes of walking
6 hours of travel 
5284m

Lublung Nala Base Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5592m | 5:41pm

The snow showers come and go, in pulses throughout an otherwise mild day. Yesterday, we acclimatized at a lower camp, and shifted up here today, 1046 feet higher. The weather continues to appear unstable, yet tomorrow morning we will start at 4 am, for a nearby 6000 meter summit. Everyone feels healthy, and some of us will climb to 6000 meters for the first time in their life tomorrow. That's exciting.

Lublung Nala Base Camp, Tsomoriri, Ladakh | 5592m | 6:03pm

We all reached a 6200m Himalayan summit this morning.  Guests say it was fulfilling. Gomba, Chris, and Chuck climbed together on a large ridge. Will wasn't feeling well last night so we planned a rest day today. He woke up feeling strong and we went for a walk into a nearby cirque to scout new climbing routes. Halfway up the valley, with clouds covering the peaks we'd planned to scout, I asked him, "what do you want to do today Will?" There was a clear route straight to the summit of the peak the others were already climbing. I gave that option, and he was up for it. We began climbing, reaching the group an hour later. We all summited together in brilliant sunshine, descending to camp for lunch. Evening, we'll shift our base camp tomorrow, and climb another 6000 meter peak in the coming days. Snow showers and marginal weather continue.

There is something heavily comforting to all in the room. No one had much to eat for  dinner tonight, and silence is our moniker. Yet I can tell that something is in the air. And everyone seems ready for sleep.

We are down from the high mountains. A monk came by, asking for the fee to sleep on his monasteries land. We paid it politely, opening a bottle of South Australian Cabernet to share amongst ourselves. We are nine, two horsemen, Phuntsok, Gomba, and Kunsang.

Back to Leh, we have gone multi-pitch rock climbing and downhill mountain biking the past two days. A great trip. We will return to this region in 2018.

2016 September Stok Range Alpine Climbing

Will Porteous on the summit of Shuku Kangri. We were the only team on this peak.

The Stok range is the prominent skyline of peaks seen from Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The Stok range is most often visited for a climb of the popular trekking peak, Stok Kangri.  The focus of this trip was to seek out new climbing objectives on adjacent peaks and on North facing slopes.  The north facing slopes of this range hold stationary ice bodies and glaciers and do present some degree of climbing challenge, and at the 5500m+ elevation.
      From 25 September - 8 October 2016, we made our way into Stok Kangri base camp via Shang Sumdo and the Matho valley.  There are a lot of tour companies offering climbs of the standard route on Stok Kangri. It is possible to come to Leh and organize a climb of Stok Kangri for about US$400. You go into base camp, sleeping in pre-established camps, and walk up the route with a local boy, under good conditions. This trip has nothing to do with this experience. Our goal was to do alpine climbs of more aesthetic routes, including learning to climb on ice with crampons, and covering other skills for moving in technical rock and ice terrain in the mountains, with a western mountain guide teaching these skills (Luke Smithwick).

Blue sheep cross a glacial stream on approach to base camp.

     Our first day of training for these skills was in Matho Phu, where we covered ascending and descending a fixed rope in steep rock terrain, moving together in alpine style on a rope, basic knots for mountaineering, objective hazards in mountaineering, communications while traveling as a rope team, and how to transition into multi-pitch rappels from upward progress.  Each of our trips is catered to the participants involved. Mahesh wanted to trek and try climbing, Amit wanted to learn to mountain skills, and Will wanted to climb new routes and summit 6000 meter peaks. More images of the trip below. We will return to the Stok range in July 2017. Interested? Contact Luke
    

Himalaya Alpine Guide Luke Smithwick putting up the rope to belay guests during the ascent of Golep Kangri in alpine style.

Will Porteous on the summit of Stok Kangri.

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The team making their first multi-pitch alpine rock climb. Two of these climbers had never been rock climbing before.

Views on 5000 meter Matho La.

Looking into Matho valley from the top of Matho La.

Amit with Stocky the dog while hiking Stok Kangri.

Mahesh on trek.

2015 Menthosa Expedition

The 2015 Menthosa expedition started out in Manali, we drove North into Lahaul, and then set our first camp in the village of Urgus, and began to acclimatize. It rained for three days straight without stopping, bringing a huge snow load onto our objective. I decided to pack up the expedition, and move the entire thing North into Ladakh and fairer weather. Over the following weeks, we successfully climbed two aesthetic 6000 meter peaks. Brief below. -Luke

Drying out camp in Urgus after the storm.

Enroute to the Changtang, we stopped briefly in Pang.

30 Sept 2015 | 4600m | Korzok Phu | 0758

The team is feeling well, and today we will walk up to high camp for 6250m Mentok Kangri 1.  Tonight, we will rise in the early morning hours, put on our double boots, and begin climbing to the summit.
There is not a single cloud in the sky,

Camp beneath the Mentoks.

and it is harvest season for the pashm goats around us.  There are about 5000 goats and sheep in this valley, with the landscape dotted with yak hair tents

Base camp in the Mentoks.

of their Changpa owners, and the smoke of dung fires keeping their families warm, and fed by a cooking fire.  The quiet is nice, and the

The 17 year experienced cook, Phuntsok Dorje, styles out a pizza on the base camp stove.

cold air brings the sound of children off in a distant meadow, playing and watching their livestock.  The moon is full, and one can see forever, to Tibet, to distant mountains to the North, and there is only time to think, and breathe, and reflect amongst the silence.  The climbing is only the icing on the cake, being here is truly  as good as it gets.

4 October 2015 | 5450m | Mentok Kangri BC | 0830

A trailside mani stone.

Press play. Lars Andersson on the summit of Mentok 1.

We trekked to base camp several days ago, had a day of rest the following day, and climbed Mentok Kangri yesterday.  We took a steeper route this time, climbing directly up the glacier headwall to the ridgeline, then to climb to the summit ridge in three pitches.  During past ascents, we did not rope up for this section, however this time we found ice and snow where there is normally dry rock. Reaching the 6005m summit that demarcates the top of the ridgeline, we continued to the summit of Mentok Kangri 1 in blustery

Climbing up the Mentok headwall in alpine style.

conditions, reaching base camp at 2000 that night, for a 17 hour day that normally takes 8 hours (!).

Everyone crashed in their tents, and the following morning, we packed up and headed for

lower altitudes and some good rest next to Lake Tsomoriri in the shepherd camp of Peldo, where we are now.

7 October 2015 | 5456m | Changtang Peaks camp | 0735

Looking out on Lake Tsomoriri.

Yesterday, we climbed a peak we named "Changtang Kailas" for its round shape. Topping out at just over 6000 meters,

The group on the summit of Changtang Kailas.

it made for a great summit for the whole group. From the top, we had great views of high Lungser and Chamsser Kangri, along with many remote 6000m peaks along the Tibetan border.

Resting and relaxing in the dining tent.

It's windy and cold in October on the Changtang plateau, and I'm looking forward to getting to Nepal in a few days. 

2014 Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory

So how did the Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory go for 2014? Well, we never made it!  The guests on the trek had a last minute emergency before leaving home, so we adjusted the itinerary to fit their new needs. Hence, a Markha valley trek with Kang Yatze climb in June! A nice trip, and in the truly quiet season. Notes and photos below. -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides



Hangkar | 4039m | 17 June 2014 | 1715

We started yesterday close to lunchtime after shifts in our program due to guest needs, moving from Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh in a quick period of ten days (a huge move for 12 horses, all the gear, 3 Nepali guides, and 1 local guide). We made the move in order to accommodate our guests, who in the end at to put off their trek for personal reasons.

Enjoying the evening in the meadows of Hangkar. We spend two days here to acclimatize properly to move up to the high plateau of Nyimaling.

  So there we were, the 2014 Pare Chu Peaks Exploratory instantly morphed into a Markha Valley trek with a climb of Kang Yatze 2.  Two guides from the United States, Evan Miller and Rebecca Yaguda joined us for the experience.  We've moved quickly through the Markha valley, covering what is normally four days ground in two big days. With our first glimpse of Kang Yatze today, we are looking forward to moving up to base camp in the coming days, and focus on climbing on this quick trip to the alpine. Evan and Rebecca are strong guides and enjoyed having long days walking.

The citrine wagtails have returned to this small ochre-colored valley to summer and nest in its thickets and groves.  While being one of the most popular treks in Ladakh, June is proving to be a quiet month, with few others trekkers seen and great weather, if not too warm and sunny. Ngima Tenzi Sherpa, Da Gyelje Sherpa, and Gombu Sherpa are adjusting nicely, and keep referencing Dolpo and Mustang in Nepal as Ladakh's similarity.  It is their first season guiding in Ladakh, with 37 years guiding experience collectively in Nepal.

Last night was a perfect reference Da Gyelje's cooking, with homemade pasta and sauce with parmegian, and banana flambe for dessert. It appears that everyone, including the guests, are content to be in the mountains again.  We'll probably rest here tomorrow at 4000m, and move up to base camp the day after.  The river is flowing quiet high now, a local elder mentioning that the Zalung Karpo La is releasing it.

1828 | 4030m | Hangkar, Ladakh | 

Morning in Hangkar, the horsemen skipped town early to get cheaper grass charges.  We had a nice breakfast of omelettes with fresh roti bread, filter coffee, muesli with fresh fruit, and set about putting fresh paint on company gear, washing clothes, and enjoying the morning sun. Donkeys grazed in the fields around, and as the morning came on locals came out of their freshly-whitewashed homes to plow their dark brown fields with dzo-driven tools, sowing the seeds of this years barley.  

Across the way, groups of locals are together to build a dwelling, perhaps a new home stay house or a growing family.  This afternoon, kids passed by our tents and said hello in perfect English, fresh out of the local school. I pulled out the climbing equipment and made sure that all the crampons fit everyone's boots well and were ready for us to move up to Kang Yatze base camp tomorrow.

Clouds rolled through intermittently throughout the day, without a drop of rain and a passing breeze occasionally.  Evan spotted some blue sheep on a distant ridge; and also reported seeing a large raptor, perhaps a Lammergeier or Himalayan Griffon.

1708 Saturday 21 June 2014 Kang Yatze Base Camp

Trekking up to Kang Yatze base camp from the Markha valley. What a view!

We moved up to base camp here three days past, and have spent our time acclimatizing, going for hikes, and chatting in the dining tent with Da Gyelje's banana cake and chai.  A nice few days, we plan for a climb of Kang Yatze 2 in the morning. 

Ngima Tenzi, Gombu, and Kunsang have been practicing with their climbing gear and knots; as Kunsang is an aspirant mountaineering guide and can pick up a lot of tips from Gombu and Ngima; if not Da Gyelje the cook as well; his having climbed Everest 5 times. 

Today being the summer solstice, we awoke to a Himalayan snow squall.

22 June 2014 | 5032m | Kang Yatze BC

The team started climbing Kang Yatze 2 at 0500 this morning. It's 1132 and rightly snowing with about an inch on the ground.  The Himalaya are giving them a true climbing experience, and hopefully it will clear and they'll make the summit.  Not sure as it looks like this weather has set in for the day.

Still stiff in the legs, I expect by tomorrow I'll be ready for another climb here in the Kang Yatze massif, having completed an ascent of Kang Yatze I via the northeast ridge two days prior. I began the climb at 0845 and made it back to camp at 0031. A big day and a good reminder to always bring your head torch.  

We've a few more days before heading down to the Ladakhi capital of Leh, and plans to establish a high camp on the Dzo Jongo glacier and get some steeper alpine alpine climbs in.  With the current weather, I'm not sure what we're going to get done, and how the group will fair today and the condition they'll be in upon return. Will have to wait and see.  

The view from Kang Yatze massif.

A group of yaks are grazing this valley for these weeks while we're here.  Da Gyelje hums a tune over the steady hum of the kerosene stove in the kitchen tent, and Mamoo sneezes and pops his head out occasionally to eye his grazing horses.  Snowing patters on the tent above me, and the call of Himalayan snowcock and the whistle of the marmot and staccatoed-chirp of the perennial nesting Horned Larks gives a sense of place to an otherwise serene meadow with a young and meandering glacial stream steadily flowing through.  Kang Yatze towers in front and doesn't seem to be in any hurry to take notice of anything occurring beneath it, even as its seracs and massive ice walls steadily trickly away to meet the mighty Indus River 40 miles distant.  

1607

They've returned a few hours ago, reaching 6000 meters and no summit.  The snow continues to fall in mixes of flakes and graupel stones, and I wonder about the current weather pattern and the duration of its continuance.  I'd like to see it burn away this evening but have my doubts.

     

0703 23 June 2014 Kang Yatze BC

Morning with snow overnight, it looks like we'll be moving out of base camp this morning.  With the ground and surrounding peaks covered in white, it's a nice break from the snow and freezing rain over the past few days, but it doesn't look like it's done.  We hatched a plan to move over the Stok range today, and then move along its northern flank.  If we put in two solid long days, we will be in the Matho valley to make a climb of Shuku Kangri, and then to traverse to Stok Kangri to finish the trip.  Just the walk will be spectacular, and hopefully we won't get too much precipitation along the way.  

Regardless, I don't think sitting in base camp here or establishing a higher camp is wise with the current patterns in the weather. I'll talk with Evan and Rebecca to see what their thoughts are and we'll go from there. 

1304 27 June 2014 Leh, Ladakh

We've been back in Leh for a few days, visiting ancient monasteries, having nice meals with the Himalaya Alpine staff in the comfortable guest house, and keeping warm in the unseasonably cool weather.  A nice short trek, it certainly wasn't what we all had planned at the end of May, but it was a fun experience, and we look forward to returning to the area soon.  Onwards and upwards.    

   -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides

2011 Kang Yatze climb and Markha Valley trek

Kang Yatze

We left the town of Leh on a splitter clear morning, and wound up the Zanskar River to Chilling. Heading into the Markha Valley, we crossed the river on a suspension cable and began moving high.

2011 Tsomoriri Peaks Exploratory

For this trip, the weather was kind. We only had to endure one lightning and hail storm at 5000 meters, and only lost one member of the staff (long and humorous story, he's fine now and still with us). We climbed nine 6000 meter peaks as a group.  Images below highlight the experience.