Zanskar Alpine Rock Climbing - July 2016

11:48 AM | 25 August 2016 | Chopdem, Goa, India | altitude:17m

Climbing!

A recap. I'm resting (Luke) and doing preparations for our next Zanskar expedition in two weeks, having just completed two Zanskar expeditions for July and August. July was one guest, a bit of a change of plans, with one guest from our Kharut Pyramid expedition coming over to India, and two others going for Kharut Pyramid next to K2. Our plan for the July Zanskar alpine climbing expedition was simple and multi-fold. The guest wanted to gain skills in multi-pitch rock climbing, while also learning about alpine climbing. Zanskar is the perfect arena for this.

Itinerary -
1 - arrive Leh - 3 July 2016
We spent the first day exploring Leh town, and acclimatizing to the new altitude of 3500 meters. I did a trip briefing with the guest, and then we did a gear check utilizing our gear list to ensure they had all the proper equipment for the expedition.

The following day, we got out early on Enfield Bullet motorcycles to a local crag, and the climbing began. The goal of the first day was to introduce new concepts, language, and methodology of multi-pitch rock climbing.  Our day plan was to climb a four pitch route that I'd climbed previously (and placed rappel/abseil anchors), discussing different concepts on terrain that was comfortable for the guest. Some images from the day. We completed the climb in 3 hours and were back to Leh for breakfast at 9:30 am. We brought light snacks and had a coffee to start the day. A pleasant experience, we now had the afternoon to explore Leh and the Indus valley.

Day 2 complete, we had covered:
-tying in with a figure eight follow through
-securing to the anchor with a locking carabiner and clove hitch
-restacking the rope for the leader for the next pitch
-cleaning cams and nuts from placements
-managing loose rock
-flaking out the rope for the leader
-anchoring the belayer
-communications for climbing - on belay, climbing, off belay, slack, tension, watch me, rock, ice, clipping
-alpine anchors
-three point equalized anchors
-rope types and applications - double ropes, single ropes, static/dynamic, alpine, crag, sport, traditional
-types of protection - cams, nuts/stoppers, wired hexcentrics, pitons, ball nuts, ice screws, natural, protection, slings, runners
-types of belays - terrain, anchors
-personal protective equipment - helmet, harness, shoes (approach, rock), gloves, hardware
-belaying the leader
-belaying a follower

Moderate multi-pitch granite climbing. Great fun!

The Khardung La is India's highest motorable road at 5300 meters.The following day, we drove to the top in a private jeep.

On the pass, we discussed pacing and moving at altitude, the rest step, and hydrating and eating while alpine climbing. It was a pleasant afternoon, with views of the Karakoram range to the North. Images of the afternoon below:

Short roping on the "Batameez ridge". Training for climbing higher in alpine style.

Route finding in new terrain.

Most of these concepts were a review for the guest, but you do not make assumptions when you are heading to climb first ascents in the Himalayas.
Over the following two days, we drove overland down the Indus river, stopped overnight in Kargil, and arrived to the Zanskari village of Agsho.  Some images of the road trip below:

On the road with the crew the jeep fully loaded.

Views of the mountains from on the road

The large Maitreya buddha carving at Mulbekh.

Reaching the village of Agsho on the evening of the 4th of July, we set up camp, got in touch with locals, and then went for a day of rock climbing before heading up the Agsho river to our base camp for the expedition. Images of that period of time below.

Wildflowers next to a field in Agsho.

Loading the yaks in Agho to head up the valley.

Heading up the valley with the first views of the craggy peaks of the valley (!).

Locals unload from the regional bus as we head out of town.

Rigzin looking back as he leads the yaks further.

Agsho village and the team.

Family in Agsho, all smiles.

Kunsang and Gomba with a yak friend.

A local lady heading home from a doksa (summer grazing settlement)

First views of the Bharnaj peaks (!).

Yaks can swim (!)

Ice climbing on a weather day. With a background in rock climbing, the guest picked up the skills quickly with some introductions and instruction.

The wildflowers peak in mid July in Zanskar.

Climbing at our first nights camp, a multi-pitch route.

The first nights camp at the base of the Agsho glacier.

Reaching base camp, we enjoyed eight more days of climbing. We covered the following morphology and skills, and continued to hone the ones we had started earlier in the trip:

top rope setting
climbing movement -
hands -  crimp, sloper, side pull, pinch, gaston, undercling, finger lock, hand jam, fist jam
feet - edging, smearing, jamming
glacier morphology - moulin, ablation zone, accumulation zone, ice fall, serac, dry glacier, wet glacier, tidewater, cirque, hanging, valley, moraine, erratic, terminal moraine, nose, snout, plastic flow properties
ice climbing - swinging and placing an ice tool, foot work, parts of the crampon / ice tool and their use, ice anchors, ice screw placement, abalakov v thread
belaying an ice leader/follower

Photos of those days:

Relaxing in base camp.

Climbing!

Building anchors.

Climbing!

Gomba Sherpa with an attentive belay while Luke Smithwick leads.

Our guest making their first traditional climbing lead (!)

Climbing!

THE END. Next, the story of Hagshu and the story of an alpine first ascent in the Changtang - August 2016. We will have an alpine skills course next summer in Zanskar, where we will cover similar skills and do some more first ascents. Stay tuned (!). -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides

The guest's feedback:
"You provide truly authentic, very well balanced trips, where nothing is missing and nothing unnecessary is added on top. You all are open, sincere, deeply passionate about mountains, knowledgeable, honest and friendly. You all are genuinely attentive to client's needs and above all I feel at home in the mountains with your company and part of the team.
I liked the style, flexibility, "lightness" and energy, choice of the destination, constant adaptation of the schedule. I had a feeling of "living" in the mountains from the first day, rather than ticking off prepaid itineraries to accomplish the next ambition. I actually learned and grew as a climber..."


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Summer Solstice Alpinism - Kang Yatze 2016

We're just back to Leh from a nice June climb in the Kang Yatze massif.  The Markha valley is generally a trekking trip, where trekkers take their time to make the 45 kilometer trek over a 5000 meter pass in about 11 days. For us, this trip was focused on climbing, so we covered that ground in two days whereas most do it in six.  Eric, the climber on the trip, was ready and excited for this. Below, you'll find some spare notes while on the trip, along with photos that give you a visual of the region. We are now building treks and climbs for 2017 in the region. Do get in touch if you're keen to join us.

6:01 PM | 19 June 2016 | Chumik | 3590m

The cooling of the day, we walked about 5 hours and 15 km today. Camped next to a fresh water spring in the grass, we've set camp and will rest here for the night. The team is Eric McPherson, Kunsang Thackchod, Phuntsok Dorje, Gurmet Stok and myself. We'll make this trek of 4 days in two, and climb up to 5200 meters the day after tomorrow.
     The Solstice, longest day of the year, is tomorrow. We saw three other trekking groups today, most of them Israeli, heading to a home stay in the next village of Markha. Fair weather cumulus clouds dotted the sky as we walked today, giving fair moments of shade to an other wise hot sunny day. We could see the snow-covered peaks of Alchi down valley today, and I noticed that the ice routes of the Baralacha and Taglung la north faces still were in two days ago. These are both good signs for good conditions for climbing in the Kang Yatze massif.

Eric trekking up the trail in Markha. We spotted a lot of Himalayan Chukar in this section.

The night before summer Solstice, our camp next to a spring under a full moon.

A horseman works his team up the trail to the village of Sara.

A wilderness camp in the Markha valley.

The horseman arriving in camp, where the loads are removed and they are set free to graze for the night, the days work done.

On the trail, the horsemen working with their teams.

 1835 | Kang Yatze base camp | 22 June 2016 | 5045m

Clouds came through this afternoon, enveloping the peak in a dark gray cloud, graupel tapping on the tent fly and buckles of the dining tent clanging against its aluminum pole frame as the wind gusted in fits and starts.

The dining tent we utilize for our small groups, with rugs, camp chairs, tea and coffee, and snacks always available.

A horned lark in base camp. The most common bird in the Changtang.

Climbing gear lain out for planning the traverse from Kang Yatze 2 to 1.

A local headed up the trail to visit a friend.

Locals in the village of Markha doing the annual white-washing of the chortens.

In the village of Hangkar there are verdant fields, white chortens, and views of the Kang Yatze range. Timeless.

Our first view of the Kang Yatze massif before the village of Hangkar.

Locals in the village of Hangkar.

A lone villager out looking for her yaks near the village of Sara.

Eric crossing the icy river near Sumdo.

Trekking out of the Markha valley and into the plains of Nyimaling.

Goats and sheep in the village of Markha.

On the trail in the Markha valley.

Marmot battle (!)

We spent the morning paring down and organizing equipment for the climb tomorrow night. Let's see what the weather looks like in the morning.  We arrived to base camp yesterday afternoon, hiking up from the summer grazing hamlet of Tujungtse. We both had mild headaches, a symptom of a rapid ascent from 3700 meters to 5045 meters in three days. Most groups that are trekking the Markha valley do so in four to five days, with an acclimatization stop at 4000 meters in Hangkar. The ends to the means of a Markha valley trek is the valley itself, hence the slow trek. We were utilizing the valley for access, the approach to 6400 meter Kang Yatze 1.  Eric is strong, and has altitude experience with a previous ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal. Today he reports that he "feels like a million bucks". We will be fine with the altitude. It was a good day of rest and preparation.

Ice climbing on the Kang Yatze glacier

Climbing high on a pillar in the serac field of the Kang Yatze glacier.

A local resident in Nyimaling.

A two person tent, each member had their own while on treks and climb with us. The red toilet tent in the background.

Morning light on the glacier from the summit of Kang Yatze 2.

The Shang Sumdo gorge after crossing the Gongmaru La.

Big sky country with trekkers (bottom left).

Sunset in Nyimaling

A local out for a search for her yaks.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

On the Kang Yatze glacier after descent.

Trailside flowers on retreat.

A young of the year donkey in Nyimaling.

A local takes his animals out to pasture.

 Conclusion


Our original goal was to climb the northwest ridge in alpine style, establishing a high camp in the rocks on Kang Yatze 2 and then continuing on to complete the ridge early the following morning. In our discussions on the trail and in the dining tent on approach, I brought up weight. Carrying planned buy gear would add kilos to our packs, which were already heavy from a small stove, a light alpine rack, and alpine double ropes.

On the summit of Kang Yatze 2, pondering our next move.

I added that we could bring an alpine bivy tarp and and a single foam mattress, using it for emergencies and saving about several kilos each.  This plan stuck and we set to planning on it, a single push alpine style ascent.  Arriving in base camp, we had the usual slightly elevated heart rate and even a mild headache for a brief period that can accompany moving to 5000 meters. We waited for our bodies to adjust to that altitude, laid out our gear for the climb, and then set off at 10 pm for the climb. Reaching Kang Yatze 2 summit at 6 am, with about an hour total of breaks enroute, we watched the clouds roll in and out on the ridge, not exactly the most inspiring weather.  I began melting snow in the Jetboil, refilling our water bottles and watching to see if the weather would change in our favor. 

Spectacular views on our descent to Kang Yartze base camp.

    We discussed the climb at this point. I mentioned that we had 980 meters of distance to climb on technical and semi-technical terrain with a vertical gain of roughly 200 vertical meters. We talked about the commitment on the ridge. Once we started, we would need to commit and climb on to the summit, or return the way we had come. There was no option for bailing in the middle of the ridge.  Both of us felt fine. The night had been calm, and we had moved slowly and deliberately at a pace that we could maintain for the duration of the traverse.  I knew we could just go for it. The ridge doesn’t present any climbing that is overly difficult. Perhaps a few exposed moves on rock at a “step” near the summit, but overall fairly steady climbing at an altitude (Denali elevation here) above the summit of Denali. I didn’t see it.  I was not keen to expose the guest with me to such a risk. “You are guiding” kept ringing through my mind, and I decided we should be content with a 6250 meter summit, and head back down to base camp. Could we have completed the climb? Possibly. It did not feel right. I’ve trusted my instincts while climbing in the Himalayas for the past 15 years, and never had to call a helicopter or had a rescue. My primary goal is to keep that record intact, bringing guests home safe is the most important parameter of successful mountain guiding. We came back safely with an excellent trek and 6000 meter summit, and all in two weeks (!).