Summer Solstice Alpinism - Kang Yatze 2016

We're just back to Leh from a nice June climb in the Kang Yatze massif.  The Markha valley is generally a trekking trip, where trekkers take their time to make the 45 kilometer trek over a 5000 meter pass in about 11 days. For us, this trip was focused on climbing, so we covered that ground in two days whereas most do it in six.  Eric, the climber on the trip, was ready and excited for this. Below, you'll find some spare notes while on the trip, along with photos that give you a visual of the region. We are now building treks and climbs for 2017 in the region. Do get in touch if you're keen to join us.

6:01 PM | 19 June 2016 | Chumik | 3590m

The cooling of the day, we walked about 5 hours and 15 km today. Camped next to a fresh water spring in the grass, we've set camp and will rest here for the night. The team is Eric McPherson, Kunsang Thackchod, Phuntsok Dorje, Gurmet Stok and myself. We'll make this trek of 4 days in two, and climb up to 5200 meters the day after tomorrow.
     The Solstice, longest day of the year, is tomorrow. We saw three other trekking groups today, most of them Israeli, heading to a home stay in the next village of Markha. Fair weather cumulus clouds dotted the sky as we walked today, giving fair moments of shade to an other wise hot sunny day. We could see the snow-covered peaks of Alchi down valley today, and I noticed that the ice routes of the Baralacha and Taglung la north faces still were in two days ago. These are both good signs for good conditions for climbing in the Kang Yatze massif.

Eric trekking up the trail in Markha. We spotted a lot of Himalayan Chukar in this section.

The night before summer Solstice, our camp next to a spring under a full moon.

A horseman works his team up the trail to the village of Sara.

A wilderness camp in the Markha valley.

The horseman arriving in camp, where the loads are removed and they are set free to graze for the night, the days work done.

On the trail, the horsemen working with their teams.

 1835 | Kang Yatze base camp | 22 June 2016 | 5045m

Clouds came through this afternoon, enveloping the peak in a dark gray cloud, graupel tapping on the tent fly and buckles of the dining tent clanging against its aluminum pole frame as the wind gusted in fits and starts.

The dining tent we utilize for our small groups, with rugs, camp chairs, tea and coffee, and snacks always available.

A horned lark in base camp. The most common bird in the Changtang.

Climbing gear lain out for planning the traverse from Kang Yatze 2 to 1.

A local headed up the trail to visit a friend.

Locals in the village of Markha doing the annual white-washing of the chortens.

In the village of Hangkar there are verdant fields, white chortens, and views of the Kang Yatze range. Timeless.

Our first view of the Kang Yatze massif before the village of Hangkar.

Locals in the village of Hangkar.

A lone villager out looking for her yaks near the village of Sara.

Eric crossing the icy river near Sumdo.

Trekking out of the Markha valley and into the plains of Nyimaling.

Goats and sheep in the village of Markha.

On the trail in the Markha valley.

Marmot battle (!)

We spent the morning paring down and organizing equipment for the climb tomorrow night. Let's see what the weather looks like in the morning.  We arrived to base camp yesterday afternoon, hiking up from the summer grazing hamlet of Tujungtse. We both had mild headaches, a symptom of a rapid ascent from 3700 meters to 5045 meters in three days. Most groups that are trekking the Markha valley do so in four to five days, with an acclimatization stop at 4000 meters in Hangkar. The ends to the means of a Markha valley trek is the valley itself, hence the slow trek. We were utilizing the valley for access, the approach to 6400 meter Kang Yatze 1.  Eric is strong, and has altitude experience with a previous ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal. Today he reports that he "feels like a million bucks". We will be fine with the altitude. It was a good day of rest and preparation.

Ice climbing on the Kang Yatze glacier

Climbing high on a pillar in the serac field of the Kang Yatze glacier.

A local resident in Nyimaling.

A two person tent, each member had their own while on treks and climb with us. The red toilet tent in the background.

Morning light on the glacier from the summit of Kang Yatze 2.

The Shang Sumdo gorge after crossing the Gongmaru La.

Big sky country with trekkers (bottom left).

Sunset in Nyimaling

A local out for a search for her yaks.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

Distant peaks in the Kang Yatze massif.

On the Kang Yatze glacier after descent.

Trailside flowers on retreat.

A young of the year donkey in Nyimaling.

A local takes his animals out to pasture.

 Conclusion


Our original goal was to climb the northwest ridge in alpine style, establishing a high camp in the rocks on Kang Yatze 2 and then continuing on to complete the ridge early the following morning. In our discussions on the trail and in the dining tent on approach, I brought up weight. Carrying planned buy gear would add kilos to our packs, which were already heavy from a small stove, a light alpine rack, and alpine double ropes.

On the summit of Kang Yatze 2, pondering our next move.

I added that we could bring an alpine bivy tarp and and a single foam mattress, using it for emergencies and saving about several kilos each.  This plan stuck and we set to planning on it, a single push alpine style ascent.  Arriving in base camp, we had the usual slightly elevated heart rate and even a mild headache for a brief period that can accompany moving to 5000 meters. We waited for our bodies to adjust to that altitude, laid out our gear for the climb, and then set off at 10 pm for the climb. Reaching Kang Yatze 2 summit at 6 am, with about an hour total of breaks enroute, we watched the clouds roll in and out on the ridge, not exactly the most inspiring weather.  I began melting snow in the Jetboil, refilling our water bottles and watching to see if the weather would change in our favor. 

Spectacular views on our descent to Kang Yartze base camp.

    We discussed the climb at this point. I mentioned that we had 980 meters of distance to climb on technical and semi-technical terrain with a vertical gain of roughly 200 vertical meters. We talked about the commitment on the ridge. Once we started, we would need to commit and climb on to the summit, or return the way we had come. There was no option for bailing in the middle of the ridge.  Both of us felt fine. The night had been calm, and we had moved slowly and deliberately at a pace that we could maintain for the duration of the traverse.  I knew we could just go for it. The ridge doesn’t present any climbing that is overly difficult. Perhaps a few exposed moves on rock at a “step” near the summit, but overall fairly steady climbing at an altitude (Denali elevation here) above the summit of Denali. I didn’t see it.  I was not keen to expose the guest with me to such a risk. “You are guiding” kept ringing through my mind, and I decided we should be content with a 6250 meter summit, and head back down to base camp. Could we have completed the climb? Possibly. It did not feel right. I’ve trusted my instincts while climbing in the Himalayas for the past 15 years, and never had to call a helicopter or had a rescue. My primary goal is to keep that record intact, bringing guests home safe is the most important parameter of successful mountain guiding. We came back safely with an excellent trek and 6000 meter summit, and all in two weeks (!).

Satopanth - Expedition Report

First views of the Himalayas after the two day drive from the plains of India.

The Gangotri temple, where Hindus come for a blessing, and where a dunk in the river removes the sins of a lifetime. Notice the spectacular granite rock climbing above the village.

Since we were the first expedition this season, we were able to camp out right next to the temple. By now, the temple is busy with pilgrims and tourists. It was nice to enjoy the peace and take in the place all to ourselves.

There are a lot of walls and towers to climb in the Garhwal Himalaya. Most of them are likely unclimbed.

A bharal (blue sheep) checks us out along the trail into base camp.

The now famous Shark's Fin (Meru). Climbers in the past few years made a successful ascent of the central tower, and made a film that reached movie theaters in the United States.

Our functional dining tent. For climbs lower than 8000 meters, we use dining tents that fit the group size, and sit on rugs with Crazy Creek camp chairs. We've found that guests enjoy this more than the rigid plastic chairs of a typical expedition tent. Our dining tents reflect the group size, and objective. We do use tables and chairs for certain expeditions. It's best to clarify with us which you prefer.

Packing up camp beneath aesthetic Mount Shivling in the meadows of Nandanvan.  We use two person tents for each climber on our expeditions, and 3 person tents for each climber on our 8000 meter trips.

Lal Bahadur serving up omelettes and fresh bread for breakfast. On mornings while we are still on approach, we have breakfast outside on carpets to enjoy the views, notice the camp is being packed up and hence lots of equipment everywhere.

Looking up valley towards Tibet as we approach base camp.

In base camp, we quickly set to packaging food for the mountain, and doing final preparations. Here, Tsewang Namgyal and Gomba Sherpa.

Vasuki Parbat from base camp. One day.....

Advanced Base Camp on the Satopanth Glacier.

Mount Satopanth from Camp 1, Gomba Sherpa preparing for the day.

We had to walk across some crevasses, but in the Spring season most crevasses were well covered with snow.

Ted Hedberg and Chris Lane brewing up some hot drinks and food for lunch at Camp 1.

Agnieszka Pilarczyk and Chris Lane on the fixed lines between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

On the "knife ridge" between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Satopanth.

On the "knife ridge" between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Satopanth.

Working out tent spots in evening light at Camp 3.

At Camp 3.

Looking up at the summit of Satopanth from Camp 3. Ted Hedberg mentally preparing for the next day's climb.

Summit day dawn, Mount Kamet in the distance (back left).

On the summit, with Vasuki Parbat in the background.

Descending down to Gangotri after the climb, we had to reroute from leaving Vasuki Lake, as water ice had frozen in the rock route overnight.

Expedition Members

Ang Kami Sherpa

Dukpa Tsering Sherpa. Dukpa fixed the rope for the route from base camp to the summit.

Gomba Sherpa.

Kunsang Thakchod

Phuntsok Dorje

Lal Bahadur.

Chris Lane.

Luke Smithwick

Agnieszka Pilarczyk

We are safely back from a successful ascent of 7075 meter Satopanth.  We made a relatively quick climb of the peak, reaching base camp in four days from Gangotri (Gangotri>Chirbas>Bhojbasa>Nandanvan>Vasuki Tal (BC)).

After a day of acclimatizing in base camp (and letting the group members choose what food they wanted on the mountain), we set off for advanced base camp. Spending one night in ABC, we climbed to camp 1, spent two nights there, climbed to camp 2, spent two nights there, climbed to camp 3, and went for the summit, descending to camp 3 for one more night before descending all the way back to base camp in a single day.

Actual Itinerary
1- 20 April - drive Gangotri
2- 21 April - trek Chirbasa
3- 22 April - trek Bhojbasa
4- 23 April - trek Nandanvan
5- 24 April - trek Vasuki Tal - 4900m
6- 25 April - preparations at Vasuki Tal
7- 26 April - trek Advanced Base Camp - 4976m
8- 27 April - trek Camp 1 - 5150m
9- 28 April - acclimatize Camp 1 - 5150m
10- 29 April - climb Camp 2 - 6000m
11- 30 April - acclimatize Camp 2 - 6000m
12- 1 May - climb Camp 3 - 6400m
13- 2 May - climb summit, Descend Camp 3 - (7075m) 6400m
14- 3 May - descend Base camp
15- 4 May - rest base camp
16- 5 May - rest base camp
17- 6 May - trek Bhojbasa
18- 7 May - trek Gangotri, drive Uttarkashi
19- 8 May - drive Mussoorie
20- 9 May - drive Delhi
21- 10 May - trip debriefing, successful expedition complete

We were only able to complete this climb in an efficient style because of the small team size, prior altitude experience by all climbers, and remarkably excellent weather that we experienced for the duration of the expedition.  The climbing team was comprised of 8 climbers: Luke Smithwick (leader/guide), Ted Hedberg (client/climbing member), Chris Lane (client/climbing member), Agnieszka Pilarczyk (client/climbing member), Tsewang Namgyal (local guide), Dukpa Tsering (local guide), Ang Kami Sherpa (local guide), Gomba Sherpa (local guide).  While Luke climbed with the three climbing members, the other four local guides went ahead and fixed ropes in exposed sections of the climb, and also carried expeditions tents, food, and stoves to camps ahead so the members could climb fast.
     The team essentially moved as a unit this way, sometimes being just a few hours ahead and setting the route and camps, while at other times moving up the day before, and then coming down to rest before climbing up to stay the following day.  Dukpa Tsering (pictured), the elder climber and guide of the trip, was the climbing leader. Dukpa is the reason we were able to summit Mount Satopanth.  He led all of the rope fixing, and was on the lead end of the rope for the crux sections along with the plods in between.  Gomba Sherpa, Tsewang Namgyal, and Ang Kami Sherpa supported Dukpa by providing the static rope, snow pickets, rock pitons, and ice screws, along with a belay when he needed it.
     For summit day, we started the stoves at 1230 am, and left the tents at 330 am. It was a bit of a task to get the whole team moving as everyone had been climbing hard for 7 days at this point. We started on, and by 1230 pm had the whole team on the summit, Dukpa once again pushing ahead to get us over the summit cornice and on to the ramped summit.  What a view, smiles all around and quiet contentment. A few photos, some handshakes, the prayer flags put up, and we began descending to high camp. Congratulations to the team.
So how does it work? We certainly were not playing by the rules in one sense, while we were following the "climb high, sleep low" ethic in another. This trip was a unique case where we simply had 8 people that are able to acclimatize quickly, while also tolerating the lower regions of high altitude quite well.  No one experienced mild altitude symptoms until we reached 6000m, upon which two climbers (myself and one guest), had mild headaches that went away with rest.  Each member of the climb took 150 mgs of Acetazolamide starting three days prior to our ascent to altitude (starting the day before we arrived in Gangotri), and continued this dosage until we descended to base camp after the summit.  Of course, we had the Portable Altitude Chamber for emergencies along with us, and Dexamethasone and Nifedipine for severe altitude illness.
     While having a Portable Altitude Chamber is now industry standard, I honestly feel that they are not necessary if you have a professional guide that is fluent in the functional language of the clients (and who also takes the time and patience to talk and listen to each client). The only time I've seen a PAC bag utilized was when there was a communication barrier between the clients and the guide, and the clients continued ascending even with obvious signs of altitude illness. Communication, interaction, and discussion of each members current status is something we do through the day, and on into the evening. It's very clear when someone needs to rest at an altitude, and wait until their body improves at that altitude before ascending higher.  Perhaps what also comes into play here is group size. With a trekking or expedition group larger than 6 people, you are more likely to be overlooked and not attended to by your guide.
    

     
 

2016 Satopanth Expedition - Overland Journey to Uttarkashi

19 April 2016 | 1945 | 1183m | Uttarkashi, India (Hindi: उत्तरकाशी )
We left Mussoorie mid-morning and descended through mixed conifer forests to the Bhagirathi river. 
We stopped several times along the way to take in the views as the entire range was out, from the Trans-Satluj peaks to Nanda Devi (albeit with a thin haze above the foothills). I'll edit some more post trip so you can see the range.  Reaching the Bhagirathi river, we drove through villages as Spring wedding parties commenced, drums and horns shouting in celebration.  It is harvest time here as well, with this region having two harvests each year.

Looking out on the Himalayas on the drive down (I'll process these images later so you can see the mountains).

A cricket session ensuing on the road.

Roadside coffee and tea stop.

Locals having a break from the drive.

Arriving mid-day to Uttarkashi, we went and obtained the Gangotri National Park permit, and picked up final food stocks for on the mountain.  The team is all healthy, and we are now ready to move further to Gangotri, where the approach to base camp begins.  This will be the last post as we are leaving the wired world for the next 23 days. Remember, no news is good news. See you in awhile!  -Luke Smithwick, guide, Himalaya Alpine Guides

Gomba Sherpa, a professional climber from Kathmandu that works with Himalaya Alpine Guides year round.

Locals doing errands in the market.

Locals doing errands in the market.

Locals doing errands in the market.

Locals doing errands in the market.

Locals doing errands in the market.

A shopkeeper selling spices.

A fruit and vegetable salesman.